Banana Republic

Santa Marta is about three hours, by car, from Cartagena, along the coast. The hub of activity, mostly tourism-related, is Rodadero Beach. Because it was low season, the beach was practically ours.

I've never been much of a beach person. In fact, the only time I offer to get behind a wheel is when i go to the beach---only then can i escape when i want to. But my Colombian experience leaves me wondering if i have been fair to the beach. Could it be that my resistance to the sand and salty water is a result of the 6am wake-up calls that my parents imposed on us? (Mom: "We have to be on our way home before the dangerous noon sun.") Could it be the horrid parking lots, cold waters, and communal showers of Robert Moses State Park? Lord knows that it wasn't the homemade bologna sandwiches.

In Colombia, in just under 48 hours, my childhood beach memories were exorcised. The water was perfectly tepid. Food and drink were remarkably fresh and accessible. Cover from the intrepid sun was over head. Melquiades, beach vendor extraordinaire, shared his views on politics (he supports Mockus); went mute when Matias referred to me as his husband; and laughed (genuinely) at every joke---good or bad---that was made. An inflated ego and warm water: these must be necessary components to a good vacation.

Gabriel García Marquez---who may or may not have been on the beach at the time---has done much of his writing from and about the coastal areas of Colombia, primarily Cartagena, but also Santa Marta. In Cien años de soledad (100 Years...), he immortalized the Banana Massacre of 1928, which happened just outside of Santa Marta. But that was in the olden days, when the United States controlled Latin America through its subsidiaries (a.k.a. multinational corporations) and subsidies. Phew! Good thing that that doesn't happen anymore. Now, it's just real investments and international aid.

But why dwell on the past, if it weren't for all the turmoil and distress of yesteryear, what would the Zieglers have named their clothing store for exotic travel? Competitive Neighbor to the South and Equal Partner in a Global Democracy don't have that middle-america-shopping-mall charm.